Sunday, November 30, 2008

Snowy Mountains to Melbourne

27th October
Woke around 6.15ish – blah. Wanting to get moving early, and intending to go for a run/ride/swim before I left town I still couldn’t drag my ass outa bed until 7am. Needing to sort out some photos, that took slightly longer than anticipate, and with a couple of minor hiccups (like breaking a wine glass) instead of leaving at 8.30 I was heading out at 9.30am, not having done any exercise at all. That’s ok, intent was to do a big walk at Mt Kosciosco later that day, that’d make up for it. Stopped at Shell for fuel (and a hot chocolate and donut – sooo naughty!) and then the information centre to find out where the Snowy Mountain Hydro Scheme was set up, and ensure there would be no snow/ice on the roads. All good, from there headed west to the Canberra Space Station, and the biggest ‘dish’ in the southern hemisphere – 70m across. Very interesting place, with lots of information, including busting ‘The Dish’ movie, as not only did they not play cricket on the dish (which most people would think was purely for the movie only) Parkes didn’t have anything to do with the Apollo 11 landing on the moon – it was Honeysuckle Creek, near Canberra, that took the images. That particular dish had been relocated and was now here at Tidbinilla. If nothing else everything here certainly put things in perspective – I’d spent the last 9 weeks learning all about Australia and our history, and we don’t even count as a blimp on the radar when it comes to the scheme of things. Next stop, Cooma, nearly a two hour drive, and the information centre on the Snowy Mountain Hydro Scheme. Back to being amazed by what us humans can achieve. I particularly found amusing the stat that 1 hour of output from the scheme created 3,756,000 Wh, enough to power a hairdryer continuously for 238 years – which would suit Kel just fine! Into Cooma town and a quick stop at Coles before heading up the mountain to Thredbo, the base of Mt Kosciusko. Man, if I thought Canberra was deserted, try heading to a ski resort in spring! Drove around the village before deciding to head to a campsite for the night. Arriving around 7 with it still light (have I mentioned I love daylight savings?) I took a quick walk by the creek before cooking tea (burritos) reading my book and updating the blog. Bed by 10.30 to the sound of the creek running just outside my bedroom window – magic!

28th October
Woke up really early, but dozed for a bit before I grabbed my book. My initial plan had been to head to Murray 1 Power station for the 11am tour, and there was no point in getting there too early, so I was quite happy reading. Got up at 8am, wrote a few postcards, had breaky, organised myself and re-evaluated the maps... and changed my game plan. Decided to climb Mt Kosciuszko first, before it got really hot, and then head to the power station and continuing the loop back to Cooma. 20 minute drive back to Thredbo and got organised for the walk – couple of apples, orange, fruit bar, lollies and some water, plus my camera of course. Over to the chairlift, which runs all year round, and after slugging me $28 I wondered if it was really worth that, or if I coulda walked it. Turns out it was worth every cent, with it covering some serious country. The weather was going to be beautiful, however colder than where we were, so expect about 12 degrees and windy. Oh, and the 13km round trip was expected to take me 4 hours, because I looked relatively fit. Right – back to George, wind jacket and two sandwiches (yes there is a reason I’m not loosing weight with all this walking!). On the chair lift just after 10, started the climb at 10.22am – I now had a challenge on my hands. Powered along and was puffed after about 10 minutes, combination of the steep incline and the high altitude (a couple along the way claimed they were suffering from altitude sickness...). Made it to the Mt Kosciuszko lookout and took some happy snapps (and caught my breath) before continuing on. Got into a routine of – see something to take a photo of, stop, catch my breath, take the shot, have some water, repack the backpack and move on. People ahead of me because chaseable objects (yes, everything can be turned into a competition!) There was still snow in parts, which was cool, and rivers running all over the place. 1km from the top there is Australia’s Highest Toilet, but more importantly I then knew it was ok 1km to go. Powering on I passed a couple on the ‘home straight’, which came not long after what I thought was the summit – similar to Bluff Knoll if you’ve been there, where you are sure you’re there and all of a sudden there’s a downhill followed by another uphill. Rounded the last corner and stood on top of Australia’s highest point – 1hr and 22 minutes, 30 minutes quicker than what I’d been estimated to do. Sat down just to enjoy the moment and pulled out the orange to eat. The couple I’d passed on the way up – Graham and Judy – were from England, over for their daughter’s wedding. His brother had a $100 bet on that he wouldn’t make it, so had not only made the top but claimed the prize for his efforts. Graham pulled out a beer, something I’d thought about doing when I packed my bag, so he offered me a mouthful – Classic Blonde and it tasted good! We chatted for a bit longer before they headed off, and said they’d see me when I overtook them on the way down. I took some photos, sent some messages and got a phone call from Mum and Dad. 30 minutes after I arrived I left. The ice at the top of the mountain was on a bit of a slope, making it slightly more challenging heading down (plus it was starting to melt in the sun). The very last section there was no easy way to climb down it, so the ladies that were waiting nearby informed me that on my bottom was the only way – for their benefit or mine I asked? So I slid down the 2 metres, which was actually kinda cool (pardon the pun), but did leave you with a wet a#se afterwards. Stopped at the toilet on the way down before catching up to Graham and Judy again, who after about 5 minutes said whilst they loved talking with me, they were quite happy for me to power on ahead, which I did. More photos and another stop at the lookout before arriving back at the chairlift – 1 hr 19 minutes. Less than 3 hours return, plus the stop. Nice. Time to beat the clock again – it was now 2pm, and I had an hour to get to Murray 1 Power station for a tour, however the roads were less than conducive to picking up time, winding up, but mainly down, through the Snowy Mountains. It was a beautiful drive, mainly in third gear, but I was definitely getting better at this, and managing to dodge the lizards (similar to our blue tongues) on the road and the birds, rosellas I think, as well. 3.15 I ended up arriving, so I read the information, saw the demo version and left, heading for Yarrangobilly thermal springs. Drove through, knowing full well you couldn’t camp there, and got death stares from a lady sitting on a verandah of ‘Caves House’. Stoped at the Park Office, which was closed until 9am the next day. Drove onto the carpark of the springs and walked down the steep 700m road to an actual pool, 20m long, with a natural bottom, complete with plants! Dived in – absolutely amazing. It was the best feeling in the world, just the birds chirping and the roos wandering what was going on. I had taken down a beer, and drank that whilst swimming around, butt naked (yes I did have bathers nearby incase unexpected visitors turned up). Very liberating, and with the sun slowly setting behind the hills (it was nearly 7pm) an absolutely magical and memorable moment of the holiday. Finished the beer and went for a walk along the river – after getting changed of course! Before dusk I wandered back up the hill, having walked about 16kms, and just as I was nearing the top saw some lights in the car park – crap I’d left the headlights on! So the last bit was a run. Drove back towards the office taking it nice and slow, not wanting to come across any wildlife when I saw headlights coming the opposite direction. He slid back down the hill to let me pass and stopped. I thanked him and he inquired where I was going, there’s no camping in here. Now I’m not sure if it was because it was dark, I was by myself or just convincing, but I claimed ignorance “really, I know there’s no camping at the springs.....” and eventually they pointed me in the direction of a grassy patch away from the accommodation that I could probably park on and if I was discrete would probably be OK. No problem! Found the grassy bbq area, ate left over burritos and FINISHED MY BOOK!!! Whoo hoo!!!

29th October
Alarm around 7 to make a get away before the rangers turned up. Took George back to the springs, and saw a ranger’s car parked along the way – bugger – too late! Had breakfast before heading for a walk around the river and up, wondering where it was taking me, when I came across the giant entrance to the caves. Wow. Kept walking and came across some more of the lizards, baking in the morning sun. Followed the path out and to the Park Office, where I paid my fees for a cave tour, self guided tour of another cave and park fees. Back to the entrance of the cave I’d seen before heading up to Jennalin Cave. Small group meant for lots of photos/questions/information, which was great. Was interesting trying to piece together the timeline of the caves, with some of the limestone black from previous bushfires or volcanic activity, and parts right next door that were pristine and white. Contemplated another swim, but with a car in the carpark didn’t want to spoil yesterday’s memory, so hightailed it out for Cooma, with a quick stop at Adaminaby and the Giant Trout. Refuel, 454 km round trip, and worth the $90 odd dollars to fill up. Now for the coast – Bega. I’m sure the trip down the ranges would have been spectacular, except for the fog/clouds that made visibility about 50 metres. Arrived in Bega at 4.30pm – straight to the cheese factory! With 14 different cheese to sample, I was in heaven, having to retaste a few of the first ones just to make sure I got the right one. Grabbed a pack of information and decided to head for the coast – Tathra. 3 caravan parks all on the beach road I called them all – how much and do you have tv (it was Wednesday, I could catch up on House and Life). One was $18 a night, no internet but tv, great. Found a site and headed straight for the showers! God that was good! Dishes next, which were pretty rank after 2 days before making more and cooking up a stirfry. All done for 8.30pm I walked my laptop and dinner to the tv room.... WHICH WAS LOCKED!!! Cursing I walked back to George and had dinner before starting an update e-mail. Lucky I didn’t watch tv, because it was 11.30pm before I finished, and with the intent to see the sun rise over the ocean the next day I wasn’t going to get a lot of sleep. In bed just before 12, just drifting off when ‘beep beep beep beep beep’..... my watch was going off. No wonder I’d been waking up during the night, somehow there was an alarm set. Fix it tomorrow ....... no wait, today!

30th October
6.30am the alarm went off... and although daylight savings were in it was already really light outside. Grabbed the camera and the toilet key (which I’d forgotten last night!) and headed across the road to the beach. Yep, sun already up, but still got some good shots. Back for a very important task – fashion parade for the mirrors to ensure I had 4 outfits for the races. Tried on the 5 dresses I had (which all still fit) and was satisfied I would be able to get by. Breakfast (I was starving, although it was only 7.30am) before updating the blog notes. Then it was time to go for a run, and boy, are there some big hills in Tathra! Ran up some stairs and then had to run further up the road... my legs were burning so in the end I had to walk. So I ran and walked for 40 minutes. Over for a shower, dishes and then head for Victoria, via the historic jetty, which looked pretty plain and boring to me! Stopped at Merimula for photos before getting to Eden just before 12, and all I wanted to do was have a nap. Had some fruit (I was about to head over the border, all the fruit and vegies had to be eaten or thrown out) and some bloke came up and asked if I had jumper leads. Yes I replied and started to reach for them. ‘Well you’re gonna need ‘em if you leave your headlights on’. Smart arse! Must be getting close to Victoria! Checked out the Killer Whale museum and Old Tom, a killer whale who used to herd in other whales for the whalers to spear. Read all about Benjamin Boyd, and then Ned Kelly (and from what I read Ned was a more honest and loyal bloke that poor Ben was!). Enough messing around, I headed for Victoria, stopping at the first rest stop to cut up the rockmelon, make lunch (tomato and cheese sandwiches) and throw out the food scraps. Stopped a few more time, in between rain showers, and was told at another spot I’d left my lights on – Gees, you think I’d have learnt after 10 weeks wouldn’t you! Further south to Lakes Entrance, which was just a flying visit but a place I’ll be sure to return to. People fishing, beautiful placid lake, lorikeets, very nice! Driving on the landscape had changed from mountain ranges and clifts to fairly flat roads, meaning good constant speeds. Managed to see a kookaburra and a wombat on the side of the road – both alive too (well I’m going to believe the wombat was alive. It appeared to be on all fours, even though it wasn’t moving!). Through Bairnsdale where I stopped for fuel - $154.90 less 4c voucher – and drove on. Had intended to call it a night a Traralgon but was feeling ok so made it as far as Warragul, 100kms from Melbourne, by 7.30pm. Went for a quick drive into town to find an internet cafe to no avail and headed back to have an early night. Left-overs for dinner, establish how I was getting into Melbourne tomorrow and pack ready for a week in backpackers.

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